“One of the most traditional Estonian foods that we have is something called Sult. It’s a great thing that you can’t usually get in Britain, but my mum makes it at home. It’s like a savoury jelly that has carrots and meat in it. It is packed full of meat so that there is barely any jelly in it. We’d use pig ears to get the gelatine and use bits of meat from the previous day that we hadn’t eaten. At Christmas, and before New Year is over, you would have to eat 12 times. Not huge amounts, but it must be twelve occasions of eating. The table would always be full of food, with things like sult, meat and fish. There are some fish that we struggle to find here, like salty herring in a creamy sauce which is one of my personal favourites.”
Add the clean meat to a large pan, cover with water and then bring to the boil. Skim off any scum that forms on the surface. Continue to gently boil for 2-3 hours.
Add your onion and carrot to the pan and then continue to simmer until the meat loosens away from the bones.
Add plenty of salt, bay leaves and peppercorns.
Remove the carrot, onion and meat from the broth, drain and cut the meat into pieces.
Run the broth through a muslin to strain out any pieces and then return to a clean pan, add the meat back in and boil again.
Use small moulds or glasses, add some sliced vegetables to the bottom of the glass, and maybe some dried herbs, then pieces of meat and pour over the liquid. Chill until set and slice to serve.